Born on January 18, 1958, under the tropical sun of Honolulu, Hawaii, Francys Yarbro Distefano-Arsentiev, or “Fran” as she was known, was set on a path of incredible adventure from the start. The daughter of John Yarbro and Marina Garrett, Fran experienced a variety of cultures and landscapes as she transitioned from her Hawaiian birthplace to a Swiss school and ultimately to the heights of the Colorado mountains.
Her academic journey was as diverse as her early life experiences. She attended The American School in Switzerland, adding European flair to her American upbringing. Upon her return to the States, she attended Stephens College and then the University of Louisville, eventually completing her educational trajectory with a Master’s degree from the International School of Business Management in Phoenix.
In the 1980s, Fran settled in the mountain town of Telluride, Colorado, working as an accountant. This period in Colorado was vital to her mountaineering aspirations. She was introduced to the Colorado mountains at the tender age of six by her father—a pivotal moment that sparked an indelible interest in climbing, which ultimately became a passion that defined her life.
In 1992, Fran married fellow climbing enthusiast Sergei Arsentiev. They were a match forged in the crucible of shared aspirations and a mutual love for the mountains. Their matrimonial journey wasn’t confined to a conventional path; together, they embarked on adventurous climbs that tested their mettle and deepened their bond. With Sergei by her side, Fran reached new heights, becoming the first U.S. woman to ski down Elbrus, Russia’s and Europe’s tallest peak.
Their shared dream to conquer the heights of Mount Everest was the cornerstone of their partnership. Together, they faced a challenge that was as formidable as it was intoxicating—the allure of the world’s tallest peak.
The Ascent to Everest and Francys’s Death
In May 1998, Francys and Sergei Arsentiev embarked on what would become their most notorious adventure—the conquest of Mount Everest. With their indomitable spirits, the couple intended to make the ascent without the aid of bottled oxygen, a feat only achieved by a select few. If successful, Francys would become the first American woman to do so.
They commenced their ascent from the North Ridge, the Tibetan side of Everest. The journey was fraught with perils and unforeseen complications. The couple’s initial attempt fell short of the summit, and they were forced to retreat to their high camp to recover and strategize for another attempt.
On their second attempt, on May 22nd, the couple ascended again. This time, they managed to reach the summit successfully, realizing their lifelong dream. However, the celebration was short-lived. As they began their descent, they were separated in the darkness and harsh weather. Sergei reached the high camp first and, upon realizing Francys was not behind him, he made the fateful decision to ascend back into the night to find her.
As daylight broke on May 23rd, climbers ascending towards the summit came upon Francys, collapsed and frostbitten, but still alive. She was without her husband and gasping for oxygen in the death zone, above 8000 meters. Despite the valiant efforts of the climbers to save her, including a daring rescue attempt by climber Ian Woodall and his team, the lack of resources and the harsh conditions made the task impossible. Francys’s final words were reported to be about her husband, Sergei, expressing her worry for him.
She died on the slopes of Mt. Everest, lying on her side, still clipped onto the guide rope. She was 40 years old and had one son. Her peaceful look earned her the name “Sleeping Beauty.”
Sadly, a year later, Sergei’s body was discovered lower on the mountain. It was apparent he had fallen during his attempt to reach his wife. The truth of what happened that night on Everest might never be fully known, but it’s clear Sergei made a heroic attempt to save his wife, leading to his own tragic end.
The Similarities to “Green Boots”
Following the tragic death of Francys Arsentiev, the mountaineering community was left in shock. Francys’s body remained on Everest, becoming a stark reminder of the mountain’s perils, much like Tsewang Paljor, who is more commonly referred to as “Green Boots.”
Green Boots, an Indian mountaineer who died on Everest during a 1996 blizzard, had become a known landmark on the northeast route of Everest. His neon-green Koflach boots gave him the moniker. His body, visible and frozen in a small limestone cave, became an eerie beacon for climbers attempting the summit.
Both Green Boots and Francys Arsentiev shared the unfortunate fate of becoming known landmarks on the routes of Mount Everest. Their bodies served as chilling reminders of the harsh reality of high-altitude mountaineering. They lay in the open, a stark testament to the risks and dangers inherent in summiting the world’s highest peak.
However, unlike Green Boots, whose identity was generally unknown for many years, Francys’s identity and her tragic story were widely reported and known among the climbing community. Their stories shared a haunting similarity: both climbers had attempted to achieve their dreams and succumbed to the ruthless environment of Everest, leaving a lasting mark on its slopes.
The Tao of Everest
In 2007, climber Ian Woodall embodied a deep reverence for those who have given their lives to the mountain, as well as a newfound commitment to honor and respect their memories. This mission was named “The Tao Of Everest” after the Chinese philosophy of Taoism, embodying the idea of ‘path’ or ‘way.’ The Tao of Everest was about recognizing the path that climbers choose, knowing the inherent risks, and seeking harmony and respect in the journey.
Woodall’s mission was to provide closure, and to some degree, dignity to the climbers who had lost their lives. The team moved Francys Arsentiev’s body to a less visible location and left a plaque in memory of her and Sergei. This act of care was not only a tribute to Francys and Sergei but also a call to the mountaineering community to show greater respect for Everest and those who had lost their lives in its formidable embrace.
The Tao of Everest did not stop with the mission to Everest in 2007. Ian Woodall and his team used the project to raise awareness of the environmental and human issues connected to mountaineering, particularly on Everest. They campaigned for cleaner climbing practices, proper disposal of waste, and more respectful treatment of the bodies on the mountain. They also advocated for increased safety measures and better resources for climbers in distress.
Francys and Sergei Arsentiev’s story became an impetus for change in the mountaineering community. As the first American woman to summit Everest without supplemental oxygen, Francys’s ambition and audacity continue to inspire female climbers worldwide. Sergei’s selfless act for his wife reminds us of the deep bond that can exist between climbing partners, and his bravery continues to be an enduring lesson in compassion, sacrifice, and love.
Through the Tao of Everest, the Arsentievs’ story continues to teach lessons about risk, respect, and responsibility. It is a tale that serves as both a warning and an inspiration, forever intertwined with the history of Mount Everest.
Deep Lore 